
St Croix River Road Ramblings
Tuesday, July 15, 2025
Leafer Madness

My Salty Fair Lady
My Salty Fair Lady
Margo and her Grand Champion Butter |
Margo Hanson loved county fairs. She grew up on a farm near West Bend, Wisconsin, where 4-H was as essential as Sunday church and mosquito spray. She could sew a zipper, bake a pie, and milk a cow before she was old enough to drive—fair material through and through.
When she married me in 1972, I introduced her to the Polk County Fair. Or rather, my mother Alberta did. Alberta was a seasoned fair veteran, hooked ever since the 1960s when her boys needed wrangling—and their 4-H entries needed help. She loved everything about the fair, except the sideshows. By then the bearded lady and two-headed calf were mostly retired, so she could stroll the barns and exhibit halls in peace.
Alberta took Margo under her wing. They’d haul in entries—paintings, flowers, cookies, apples—and always her trademark fruit-and-veggie boxes, decorated like miniature parade floats. But her real pride? Homemade butter.
In the 1990s, my brother Byron joined the fair board and gave us an alarming update: “Butter entries are down. If it keeps up, we might have to cancel the whole category.”
Now, back in the day, Polk County had over 30 creameries, and butter-making was a competitive sport. Win at the fair, and you might just get a raise—or at least bragging rights at the co-op.
So the Hansons leapt into action. That year, five of us entered: Alberta, Byron, his kids, and Margo. There were four categories—salted or unsalted, colored or uncolored—because butter, like life, comes in all varieties. Spring cows eating dandelions made rich yellow butter, but winter cows needed help, hence the coloring. And salt? It wasn’t just for flavor—it was preservation, the butter version of embalming.
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Carl Johnson, a former buttermaker, judged the butter. He liked it salty! Margo stands watching. |
Carl Johnson of Amery, a retired buttermaker, judged butter for years. He liked his butter like he liked his opinions: salty. “Salted butter should taste like salted butter,” he declared. “Two percent salt minimum!”
Margo took that to heart and ladled it in. For several glorious years, she was crowned Grand Champion Buttermaker. Then Carl died. The next judge? A health nut. His comment on Margo’s masterpiece: “Too salty.”
Making butter the easy way -- pour in cream, add some salt and mix, mix, mix, and more mixing. |
In recent years, you’d find Margo at the Red Schoolhouse exhibit, parked behind the teacher’s desk, oxygen machine humming beside her scooter. She organized the volunteers for the local historical societies, ran the genealogy entries, and still made time to wave, chat, and sneak a funnel cake.
Even as her health declined, she showed up, grinning, butter in hand. The fair gave her something to look forward to, year after year. And if the judges didn’t appreciate her salted style, well, the neighbors sure did.
Margo wasn’t just a fairgoer. She was a fair fixture—part historian, part competitor, part parade marshal on wheels.
And though she’s gone now, I like to think heaven’s fair has a butter category. And somewhere up there, Carl’s holding a blue ribbon with her name on it.
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Margo checking the tomato entries. She generally entered flowers and sometimes veggies. |
Judy and Margo in the Red School House as hosts. Margo organized the
volunteers for the school house for 15 years.